A delightful few days were spent in Paradise amongst  Man Friday islands populated by Kuna Yala Indians.  This was certainly one of the most beautiful areas we have visited this trip and deserved a much longer stay.  We spent a few fruitful hours replacing the satellite cable for the third time in the vain hope it would improve our connectivity with the Iridium network (it didn’t).  But, as the end of January approached and we had to be in Colon for the arrival of Jane and Willem Westermann on 7th February, we decided to leave the San Blas islands and set off for Portobello.

 One short stop ashore revealed a very, very poor town even though it is on the world heritage site listing.  Even the locals take their outboards home with them at night.  On then to Colon; to Shelter Bay Marina to see the departure of the Blue Water Rally yachts and the haphazard arrival of the World ARC yachts.  Moonbeam’s previous owner was amongst them on Kealoha 8.

 It was time to start provisioning for the Pacific and particularly dry stores were acquired to supplement those obtained in Curacao.  We also made contact with Toto in the Panama Yacht Club.  He was to provide us with rental ropes and tyres for our transit of the Panama Canal.  But that is for another story.

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How wrong!  This was my email to family and friends on our safe arrival in the San Blas Islands with 10,000 miles on the clock.  Congratulations Moonbeam!

 We are safe and sound in the San Blas Islands in Panama. We arrived last evening in the San Blas islands after an exhausting 4 days having left on a good forecast window.  However, we have done gales for this year, 2008 - I hope.  Running before force 7 -9 for 36 hours was not much fun.  There is a comment that hereabouts there are square waves.  Nonsense I thought. Well wrong again!  I have never seen such a confused sea.  We were falling down a mountain in complete control and got side swiped by a monster from abeam – but regularly!  Moonbeam doesn’t care and behaves impeccably but the rolling in the confused seas of Columbia has left its marks on our bodies in the form of multi-coloured bruises.  It is said to be one of the 5 worst passages in the world – lived up to its reputation in spades and makes me determined not to attempt the other 4!  For us, I learnt that the storm boards should have been in. Nothing should be left to secure ‘ once we get going’  Our tried and tested prepared meals for the first 3 days is essential, even with a cook who has a cast iron stomach.  For the skipper we know that we should expect that ‘shit happens’ but I am proud of the courage and resilience of my crew and hope that she will take confidence in the experience.  This passage has made me feel older and wiser than any before.  I recognised that Sarah was frightened (she was not alone) yet she did really well.  I think it will add to her confidence downstream.  For us - thank you Oyster Marine for a sound hull and rigging.

 Notes: Running on bare poles in force 9 = 5 – 6 kts.  A pocket handkerchief of Yankee in these conditions is much better for autopilot control than staysail alone.  Mainsail, even with preventer is –potentially lethal.  We had an uncontrolled a/p  gybe  that was so powerful that it stretched the preventer to allow the boom to gybe – not nice and we now need some stainless repairs for the bimini!


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